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So cool!

Amazing!

AWESOME!!

Dope Lemon rocks!

They are absolutely perfect! Thanks for sharing.

very cool!

But the tensioner is hydraulic, so it is not tensioning the chain when the engine is off. What would this test reveal on a known-good N20 timing chain?

Hi...i have green coolant leaking from this area in my sprinter....how did you know the evaparator was at fault and not a hose or the heating assembly area? Ps i am clueless when it comes to these things but i have taken off the lower part of my dash ie the glovebox and acrooss to drivers side....its difficult to see where leak is coming from.

What happens if you just replace the tensioner

I was there, pretty much the same view. Fab show and got to meet them as well!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

I managed to get my evaporator replaced but I used ratchet straps to hold the dash out. I cranked too hard and yanked my steering shaft apart. Don't do that.

I didn't have to remove the driveshaft. just the L bracket an the tensioner arm to slide it up to get the belt under it.

Can you take one pully off put belt on then replace pully?

This video is going to save me a lot of money thank you

Thank you so much

Thank you! I am going to try to replace the evaporator coil in my 2015

Best and concise video. 🎉 subscribed

You didn’t have to bleed your Freon???

Thanks Justin! Would have never got it done without your trick of using the leverage with the blade to get the belt on! Thanks again

Just finished this on my 2016 GL450 with 166k miles. Absolutely spot on with the instructions you provided, plus the comments by the viewers about not needing to evacuate the a/c, and removing the differential's front bolt to gain extra clearance for the old mount to come out and the new mount to go in on the driver's side. I did also remove the air filter boxes; that helped a bit reaching the very difficult bolts for the heat shields. Took me 5hrs total to do the driver's side, will do the passenger's side next weekend and I'm estimating it will take me 3 at the most. The car had a very rough idle that was driving me insane, she now feels like new. Thanks a ton; I would have ended up bringing it to an indy if it hadn't been for this video. Locally (south florida) they were quoting everywhere between $1k to $2k, insane.

Isn’t easier to remove the cat vs. a/c compressor ?

you said there as 2 i seen the one in thecenter where was the second lease?? also what size so canjust order an after market Alpines thanks

I’m midway through doing this job I have the cats removed! the clamp for the downpipes is directly behind the airbox🤷🏽‍♂️

So... newbie to work of this magnitude- are you saying all this can be done from above??? I feel like some early steps or context were skipped.

So my buddies van is leaking a green fluid from this area. I thought it was coolant and a heater core but his coolant is definantly red. Could that be his evap going out?

Great video. I have a MB 2012 Sprinter 2500. Is this the same or similar enough to attempt a DIY? Do you have the part number for the evaporator?

The is a nipple on each motor mount the nipple on the passenger side on my 2017 gle43 amg faces towards the front of the car ..does the nipple face towrds the rear of the car on the driverside mount.

If it is actually loose, do not start the car. At this point, the chain tensioner does not keep up with the chains elongation and starting the engine may let it skip within the first revolutions. There are tools to actually measure the timing chain length, these screw into the chain tensioner socket and measure the thread depth until tight.

❤

Dude i was there last night, and the show was awesome, the opening act was great too, Franklin Jonas was his name in case you wanted to know. Stay cool Lemonhead.

How did you slide drivers heat shield out? Do you have to remove that small 3 inch long rubber tube in front? Looks like a small coolant line but would prefer to not opening the cooling system if I don’t have to. Looks like removing the steering shaft might free up enough room to get it out but wondering if you ever needed to do that.

Awesome!

I'm not familiar with where the links are located. I think I'm missing it . I need to do this

Have you also done this by removing the downpipes off the turbo and accessing from the back? Wondering if that would be easier until I read some other comments you don’t have to crack the AC lines and can just position the compressor out of the way. Great Video! Thank You!

Dose this evaporator have a temperature sensor or freeze thermistor?

I wonder if you really need to remove AC compressor and the alternator to replace engine mounts?!

How many hours in were you?

I bought a new 2019 gls 450 it’s now 4 years old with 36,000 miles and mine failed already I owned Chevys and Gmc took them up to 150k before changing them get it together Mercedes

This is a very special quiet corner of UA-cam. Such a great take of a great song.

Hello, Hope you're doing well? Nice and great job/video. I have same vehicle and my alternator is bad. Please can you guide me on how to replace it. Thanks alot

Thanks for the video, cut down labor time by a lot. Also I did not evacuate and recharge the A/C system as others have mentioned in the comments, just moved A/C compressor out of the way. Its a lot easier to remove the heat shield if you first remove the lower E12 bolts for the engine mount, lift the engine up as high as possible. The helps access the 3 bolts for the heat shield.

Thanks mate, I have been stuck for days. First the car suddenly stopped being able to keep stable revs on neutral and would eventually die on me, if I didn't shift fast enough. That happened a few times before I was able to stop, connect diagnostics and find p1230. I drove it back home (just a few km) found out, that the code means a bad sensor, which I doubted, so I cleaned the throttle body, erased code and tried going around the block for a few times. Everything seemed ok, but next time I wanted to go somewhere it has done pretty much the same thing, but the codes were p1251 and p1260. (weak return springs), which I checked and the springs were a-ok. I tightened the throttle cable, erased the codes and drove back home. I got the check engine light again, but the car drove pretty much normally and was able to hold revs on neutral/with the clutch disengaged and so I searched the internet for advice and found out that it might just be the limp home mode enabled, which was exactly was going on. I erased the codes once again, did exactly what is in the video. (push to the right!) and now everything is working again. My dumb ass is very thankful for you and hopefully, if anybody as dumb/clueless as me runs into similar issues, this comment may help a little.

Hey thanks for the video, just did this on my 2016 90K miles. This was a pain int he but. I also had to drop the diff an inch or so, i found that after lifting the vehicle a couple time the suspension was more inflated so it kept the frame sitting a bit higher. Overall i am glad i tackled this and would have taken a lot longer if i did not watch your video. My next job is to fix a leaking oil pan gasket. Any experience with that? i am having problems locating one, might be a liquid gasket.

How do you get to the drivers side motor mount top bolt ?

I did a driver side mount today. Same vehicle. To add to the content: with the exception of the turbo charge pipe upper clamp bolt everything is done from the underside of the vehicle. AC unbolt and just sit it on the crossmember and it’s out of the way. The belt is a bitch to get off I had to make a special tool, basically a 17mm short socket cut shorter with a nut welded to it. A large offset wrench to relieve the tensioner and still be able to remove the tool when it’s off as the tensioner will tuck behind the turbo cooler. Most of my day wasted on this part. Or you can remove the turbo cooler.. Remove turbo pipe, AC compressor, then heat shield. Remove all three engine mount bolts. The top one needed a 16mm long socket cut a bit shorter to clear the turbo housing when ratcheting it off. You will see, a short socket and one inch extension is too long and a long socket is too long. You also have to remove the front differential mount 19mm bolt and let the differential drop a 1/2” to get the motor mount out after jacking up the engine as far as it will go. Hope this helps! Assembly goes much easier!

I know this video its a year old. Im hoping to get some advice..if the driver engine mount is really bad. Could it cuz the driver axle to make noise under load

I'm so glad I came to check first. thanks a lot. now I can dive in to this with more confidence

I just did mine tonight, only driver side, 2017 GLS450. Great advice from domehead100, I did not disconnect AC compressor lines, just unbolt compressor and you can move it out of way. Hardest part was getting heat shield off. I thought I'd never get it back on, but with some contortionism, got er done. Once I unbolted the mount top bolt and two bottom bolts, jacked up engine as far as I could, I could not get the mount out at all. I took the front bolt out of the front differential mount, and was able to drop it enough to then get the mount out. When I turned the mount sideways, the hydraulic oil from the mount spilled everywhere, I was surprised how much was in there. Putting it all back together was not as bad as I expected. I used a bapmic mount - I figured if the OEM only lasted 5years, 60K miles, the bapmic couldnt be much worse for 1/4 of the price ($52), and now I am an expert at changing it anyway.

Great video, helped a lot. Note: You do not have to disconnect the AC compressor and evacuate the AC. You can just move the compressor out of the way after unbolting it and removing the drive belt. You’ll need a stubby socket wrench to be able to get to the heat shield bolts in the back. I also did the transmission mount. To make that easier I marked the old bolts before removing and cut the bolts on the new mount to be a little longer than needed for full nut engagement. The bolts are way longer than they need to be. Added some orange thread locker for good measure. To answer some questions… The dealer wanted $2600 for this job. I spent around $300 on parts including the transmission mount, and it took me about six hours including the transmission mount. Next time would be much quicker. Note this is for the V6 (2015/2016). Earlier models are V8s, and this is much more difficult. Probably applies to 2017+ GLS 450 vehicles as well since they’re basically the same as the 2105/2016. How you know you need this: car will be very loud and rattling when starting cold. You can open the hood, press the gas, and you will see the engine move.

Thank you so much for this Video. I work at a Land Rover dealer and we sold one of these as a used car and now I have to replace the motor mounts. I was about to start taking the exhaust off before watching this video. Thank you!!!